Shape
The first characteristic to be determined in buying a diamond is the shape. In the diamond industry, diamonds are typically broken down into two basic shape categories: the round brilliant and fancy shapes. A brief description of some of the most popular shapes is included below.
Round Brilliant
The round brilliant cut reflects the most light of any diamond shape. It remains the most popular and sought after diamond shape for engagement rings. The round brilliant consists of 58 facets, 33 on the crown (top half) and 25 on the pavilion (the lower half). The depth percentage of a round brilliant diamond should range between 58 to 64 percent for maximum reflection. Ideal depth percentages range between 59 and 62 and table percentages of between 56 and 58.
Princess Cut
The princess cut diamond is a brilliant style shape with sharp, uncut corners. It is typically cut square rather than a rectangle and generally has 76 facets. The princess cut diamond is the most popular non-round shape in the
United States.
Marquise Cut
The traditional marquise cut diamond is oblong and slender which maximizes the viewable size. A length-to-width ratio between 1.75:1 to 2:1 is traditional; however, the ring setting and personal preference should also be considered. The typical marquise diamond contains 56 facets.
Radiant Cut
The radiant cut diamond is a straight-edged rectangular or square stone with the corners beveled at 45 degrees. The radiant cut diamond has 62-70 facets.
Emerald Cut
As its name suggests, the emerald cut diamond is cut in the traditional shape of an emerald with a rectangular shape and beveled corners that are beveled to a lesser degree than the radiant cut. The length-to-width ratio of an emerald cut diamond should be between 1.5:1 to 1.75:1.
Pear Shaped
The pear shaped brilliant diamond is based upon the traditional configuration of the round brilliant diamond. Pear shaped diamonds are used for engagement rings, necklaces, earrings, and custom jewelry making the length to width ratio a matter of individual taste. The typical pear shaped diamond will contain 58 facets.
Oval Cut
The oval cut is also based upon the traditional round brilliant configuration. Slightly elongated, a length-to-width ratio of 1.5:1 is almost universally considered to be ideal for oval diamonds. Any variation beyond 1.4:1 or 1.6:1 may be excessive but will depend on the jewelry setting. 56 facets are typical for oval brilliant diamonds.
Heart Shape
The heart shape diamond is a symbol of love. This distinct shape will make any piece of jewelry unique and memorable. The width will usually be 10% wider than the head-to-point length. Color may be visible in the corners of heart shaped diamonds with an I-grade or higher.
Asscher Cut
The asscher cut is a modified emerald that is square instead of rectangle. It features dramatic, cut corners with a high crown and a deeper pavilion. Because of its high crown and small table, the asscher cut has more light and fire than the emerald cut.
Cushion Cut
Popular for more than 100 years, the cushion or "pillow" cut is a square shape with rounded corners and 58 brilliant facets which accentuate diamond clarity. A classic yet unique choice for engagement settings.